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plus suit


Plus Suit

Self - Australian Pinstripe Wool
Lining - Acetate
Buttons - Vintage Nylon
Label - Hand Made Stencil

Sometimes the most unexpected designs come from the stiffest constraints of
irrelevant impossibilities: making a standard suit, that isn't double or single breasted.
But, to contradict the idea itself was to break the riddle, if one were to make both it is neither one nor the other. Hence the cross pattern button layout

Structurally the suit follows on from anatomical studies of the preceding year, incorporating the bone plate shapes of the pelvic girdle and a handful of tricky dart manipulation. Structurally it maintains bespoke canvas and needlework.

Clearly this suit enjoys the marriage of a subtle recipe of standard ideas, wrapped lightly with twisted lines of bone machines.

The high waist of the loose legged trouser is to exaggerate the waist. The bone and machine lines complicate the jacket more than at first appearance and they create the interaction of the high waist, backward vents, sideways chest pocket and frame the tighter small revere.
The suspenders were made from tough goatskin to match the suit and the olive ovals on the buttons were selected to set off the jackets front closure. It was intended to have a very smooth calcium finish, no topstitching and all hidden hand needle work.